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| Gnarly Suck Ups |
Yesterday was a great wind direction, cross onshore from the SW, combined with a super solid mast high swell. The only problem was that the wind was gusty. I rigged my 4.7 as full as I could and was just getting spanked in the gusts out back. Guernsey airport was recording an average wind speed of 32 knots and based on the surface conditions, I would estimate that the gusts were well in excess of 40 knots. Great session with huge jumps and a few forward loops, and some good down the line hits when the wind relented. Had some good spankings too and had to swim for my gear about three times. Would have given it 5 stars if it had lasted longer. Wave riding, jumping and fully powered out back 5, but with gusty conditions on the inside knocked it down to 4 stars. Made the most of it while it lasted.
Arrived to pouring rain, big swell on Tothers and with mother nature doing her best for this time of year with the wind. Met Simon (The Boy Marshan) on the beach and watched the blackness for a little while.
Was already in my wetsuit by the time the rain had cleared so thought what the hell and started to rig. Very hard to pick the strength with the gusty conditions so thought I'd go 4.7 and 75litre board . Absolute grovel off the beach, actually there was no wind until I reached the reef, then it was time to hang on. Not enough, to too much in a blink of an eye for the 4.7 out the back, could have had a 4.2.
Headed back out with Matt (El Presidente) who had also arrived, the 4.7 was perfect as the wind steadied out and found its rhythm. Noticed a few nice looking waves breaking on Gnarly Suck-ups outside of the reef so headed up there to check it out and was rewarded with something special...
Once again Vazon at it's best, cross onshore down the line sailing 10 minutes from home! Picking the decent sets as usual was not my strong point but when I did it was awesome, my best wave gave up 5 bottom turns and was over logo high. So nice looking back up the wave as you're bottom turning to see the peak forming in front of you. Simon took the worse wipeout and the worst working by a wave, of his sailing career so far, owing to the small tide that was causing Gnarly Suck-ups to live up to its name. Set of the day rears up and it was his, about 8 foot. He whips in perfect but too confident and gets in deep, big mistake!! Getting hung up on the lip he went completely over the falls as the wave sucked up over the reef and left him free falling down the face, with the lip right behind/on top of him (not sure which). One of the boys said it was very entertaining to watch. One very savage break pushed him completely to the bottom. He's probably getting better at taking it and learning just how long he can hold his breath.
Session ended with a traditional beer in the hot tub to nurse those aching bones.
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