Father like Son Surf Time

When I was a kid, my Dad and I used to always head down to the beach when the surf was up. I would hang out with Pops and the other surfers and their kids having adventures on the beach, while the dads would go surfing. It was pretty cool being brought up on the beach, in fact, I loved it. So it's not surprising that my love for the sea grew over the year's. 30 years on and we're still hanging out down the beach,and swapping story's of our surf sessions.

Weather is holding out today with no rain and hazy blue skyies with a side shore breeze. Surf has various peaks breaking all over the beach from the groins to outside T'others and still has a little of that long period swell from the west. The swell has dropped a bit, and is smaller than the last few days,but still a few over head grunters pushing through on the reef and Centers.

Paddled out with Pops to the line up on the reef where there are already ten in the line up, half inside half outside. Saw some nice size shoulder high set come in. This all had me kind of stoked.

As soon as I pulled into the line up these sets kind of diminished. Waiting for a set wave to jack up on the reef was a good time to catch up with Pops on the weekly goings on. The conversation was cut short as a swell showed its head and I paddled into a sweat right coming of the reef.

First wave in a week and stayed up a little too high and played it a little too safe for the inside section. Could have really dropped in and pulled a nice bottom turn, nope,not on this one. Paddled back out to wait for some more only to see Pops dropping in on a nice set wave, and showing me who the master is. Had a few more nice waves and called it a night just as the sun set. Great night, more of the same tomorrow as the days are getting longer.