Sunday, September 25, 2011

2 stars 4 sure. Better than nothing, but far from perfect...

Le Perron
Four days sailing in a row...................
I wish I could put it into words, but I really can't. Indescribable. I'll just leave you with a photo. Not my best picture, but the expression on my face says it all, lol! How good is it when you can be out in the boat one week then windsurfing the next! Love this place. Gotta confess, I had been getting a bit cranky due to lack of wind recently but I'm all better now. Good to see so many others making the most of it too.
When the swell hits our little rock in the English channel the variety of surf crammed into Vazon on this stretch of coast is absolutely mind-boggling. With near constant cross on shore winds from sun-up to sun-down blowing for the last week, it really becomes a matter of what you feel like sailing that day. A beach break that looked like Vargas friendlier little sister kept us content for the first day before it got crowded with surfers.  We jumped ship for the next few days to our second destination up the road to Tothers/ Gnarly suck ups a small shallow reef lying a couple 100 yards of shore with pretty similar conditions to the day before with a small and weak 3-4 ft West swell accompanied by a 5/6 WSW wind. Still some little peaks coming through just no push in the waves.  Good news is that the swell has picked up a bit to be around 5-6ft, the best conditions it has been for the last few days thanks to the last dying phase of  hurricane Katia.   A big outer reef A-frame peak called Le Perron way out in the middle of the bay had us bouncing back and forth between the two reefs.  It was firing in  sets but the sets were few and far between.  With a low spring tide and a big west ground swell running meant that the reef under the Perron was boiling with turbulence.When it's working and all the conditions come together it can be a very exiting wave to ride and can be incredibly dangerous if big sets are coming through, if the tide is low, the breaking wave can break on only a foot of water, or even dry reef (as it was today). Works best in cross /offshore winds from the south west. Tends to receive distant groundswells and the best swell direction is from the west.  Best around mid tide when the tide is rising.  Hutch and I hit the reef first playing safe on the shoulder to check out how deep the reef was only to confront a nice lump of granite on my first drop, a little unnerving. The wave was logo, sometimes mast high. Took a bit of time before I got the hang of the wave. On the other hand Hutch was right in there like a rat up a drain pipe. The Perrons made up of 4 to 5 reef heads with the swell snaking its way through and breaking on the heads causing the wave to break in different spots.   Finally there I got some nice rides , not epic. But after many days with small waves I was stoked to get some bottom turns in.

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